Nis, Serbia

Here are some paragraphs from a 2009 family letter. Last weekend we traveled to the southern city of Nis.We had a little time for sightseeing around work.  We were in Nis to help demonstrate remote broadcast at the Nis Film Festival.  The festival was in the old Turkish citadel so the main tourist attraction was all around us.  We had a pizza in the garden of the Turkish bath.  We drove out of town to visit the Skull Tower and the Nis Hot Springs. The tower is about 10 feet high and is lined with the skulls of Serb rebel … Continue reading Nis, Serbia

Serbia, Mokra Gora

(This is an excerpt from a letter from March 2009) Last week I visited a resort, Mecavnik, in the Tara Mountains near the Bosnian border just outside the town of Mokra Gora.  It was built by Emir Kusturica, the Serbian filmmaker (“Arizona Dream”, “Underground”).  We are planning to have the IREX Journalism Summer School there in June and July.  Mecavnik is an “ethno village” designed to look like a traditional Serbian village and was built, I think, first as a film set.  It is the site of the annual Kustendorf Film Festival and has a modern cinema, indoor pool, gym, … Continue reading Serbia, Mokra Gora

Belgrade, Tito’s Grave, Yugo Nostalgia.

This is from an April 2009 letter:   When I picked up my teacup a few mornings ago, the one with Tito, I noticed that my fingers were black.  I don’t know if Tito is rubbing off on me.  But the cup is a bit less stark than it once was. On Saturday I went to an exhibit “The Tito Effect” at the museum near his tomb.  It explores the charisma that held Yugoslavia together after the Second World War.  At the entrance a youth choir was singing.  The group was backed up by a bass, guitar, and drum.  They … Continue reading Belgrade, Tito’s Grave, Yugo Nostalgia.

Belgrade, NATO Bombing Sites.

This is from an October 2000 letter from Belgrade, on my first visit to the city after Milosevic lost power– and my first visit since the NATO bombing.   When someone asks “do you want to see the sights” he really means “sites,” the places hit during the NATO bombing.  Like in Pristina, the tour points out how accurate the bombing really was.  People mark time “before bombing, after bombing” always pronouncing the second “b” in bombing.  And when people ask “how has Belgrade changed” they expect me to cite the most visible of the sites, the tall building next … Continue reading Belgrade, NATO Bombing Sites.

Belgrade, Hotel Moskva

These paragraphs are from a 2012 letter.  We returned to the Moskva Hotel, where we had stayed so many nights in the 1990s.  When we came back we stayed where we started, at the Moskva.  The deskman knew us after a decade of absence from the hotel.  The Moskva is one of my top three emotional picks for hotels in the world.  We spent hundreds of nights here in the 1990s and early 2000s, sometimes staying for a month at a time.  I watched the massive demonstrations against Milosevic from the Moskva’s windows. In 1997 Ljiljana chose the Moskva for … Continue reading Belgrade, Hotel Moskva

Belgrade, Kalemegdan: Where the Danube and Sava Rivers Meet.

Kalemegdan is where the Danube and Sava Rivers meet.  It is a fortified site that has been held by the Celts, Romans, Byzantines, Serbs, Turks, Austrians, Germans, Yugoslavs and the Serbs again.  It is a park, fort, and the place where Belgrade spends weekend afternoons.  The pictures are from Kalemegdan and other places mentioned in the letter.  These are excerpts from an March 2009 letter.   On Sunday in Belgrade the parks came alive.  Today Belgrade’s walking street was full of strollers eating ice cream and popcorn, stopping for an iced coffee at one of the cafes and strolling on … Continue reading Belgrade, Kalemegdan: Where the Danube and Sava Rivers Meet.