The Overland
While the Indian Pacific is a relative new train, starting transcontinental service in 1970, one of the oldest inter-capital trains in Australis is the Overland, between Melbourne and Adelaide. That run started in 1887 as a sleeper train. It was … Continue reading The Overland
Adelaide Fringe
The Belfast Bar Band is performing in a circus tent for an audience of Aussies. The leader announces the next song as the unofficial Australian National Anthem. Everyone thinks: “Waltzing Matilda.” The band breaks into “A Pub with No Beer.” … Continue reading Adelaide Fringe
We Arrive in Adelaide, without the train.
We arrived in Adelaide about four hours late. We didn’t arrive at Parklands train terminal but rather at Adelaide International Airport. And we didn’t arrive on the Indian Pacific train but rather via the Queensland And Northern Territories Air Service, … Continue reading We Arrive in Adelaide, without the train.
Window Scenes from the Indian Pacific.
In my last post I promised a gallery of pics shot from the window of the Indian Pacific Train that didn’t make it across the continent but gave us a great ride and an experience. Continue reading Window Scenes from the Indian Pacific.
We Pull a Hazard Card in the Train Game.
There’s a game our family likes to play called Australian Rails. It has a map of Australia with cities, each with things that they sell or buy and players build railroads with crayon across the continent trying to earn revenue. … Continue reading We Pull a Hazard Card in the Train Game.
No Stoplights, no McDonalds, must be Boulder.
Boulder started as a separate mining town from Kalgoorlie. Now both townships are part of a unified municipality but some people in Boulder don’t feel that way. Chunky (Kin Gent) is a local character and woodworker in Boulder. His workshop … Continue reading No Stoplights, no McDonalds, must be Boulder.
More Precious Than Champaign… Kalgoorlie
In Kalgoorlie water is more precious than champaign. It was the site of one of the biggest gold strikes in Australia, but to develop its full potential it needed water. The answer was The Goldfields Water Supply Scheme or “Golden … Continue reading More Precious Than Champaign… Kalgoorlie
“You’re Taking a Train Across Oz!”
The legendary trains had names cited in literature and celebrated in song. Probably the most famous named train is the “Orient Express” made famous by Agathe Christie, Graham Green, Eric Ambler, and Ian Flemming (yes James Bond rode the fabled … Continue reading “You’re Taking a Train Across Oz!”
Freo Checkup
Note to Naval Architects. It is not a good idea to put the sick bay in the bow of the ship. It’s the place that pitches the most. I am a notoriously hard “stick” when drawing blood. Moderately heavy seas … Continue reading Freo Checkup
Chinese New Year Trumps Mardi Gras…
…and Mardi Gras trumps Ash Wednesday, at least on Zaandam. Tuesday was both Lunar New Year and Fat Tuesday. Holland America makes a big deal out of both. But how can you make a big deal of each when they … Continue reading Chinese New Year Trumps Mardi Gras…
Unexpected Sea Day
After we pulled into Broome in Western Australia Cruise Director Rebekah came on the PA saying that it would take some time for us to dock because of the wind, please don’t gather near the gangways. A few minutes later … Continue reading Unexpected Sea Day
Charles was never in Darwin…
…But HMS Beagle was. In 1839 the ship was on a survey mission to Northern Australia. Both the Captain and Lieutenant remembered Charles Darwin fondly so they named the bay Port Darwin. The city that grew up around the bay … Continue reading Charles was never in Darwin…
Explaining Transubstantiation to Cannibals
We began our four sea days between Cairns and Darwin with sail out along Trinity Inlet with the city on one side and mangrove on the other. We grabbed dinner from the lido and stayed on the aft deck for … Continue reading Explaining Transubstantiation to Cannibals
Sky Rail Down
I booked this tour because I’m a train nut. But in the event, it was the gondola ride down from Kuranda that caught my fancy. The gondola holds six people but they only put in four. It flies over and … Continue reading Sky Rail Down
Be Mindful of the Gap
“Be Mindful of the gap” shows a more relaxed Aussie attitude to rail travel than the British commanding “Mind the Gap.” Or perhaps the mindfulness movement has just taken off more completely in Australia. But if the Kuranda Scenic Railway … Continue reading Be Mindful of the Gap
Green Island Redux (Cairns)
The tour out of Cairns (pronounced cans, as in an Andy Warhol painting) was advertised as “Green Island Eco Adventure.” This is the second time we have tried it and we found, blessedly, that this time it was much less … Continue reading Green Island Redux (Cairns)
We Are the Bank, Kiriwina
During the Second World War cargo cults developed in Papua New Guinea. Isolated local tribes saw airplanes arrive with unimaginable goods, some of which trickled down to the locals. Then they left. Some leaders preached that if the tribes imitated … Continue reading We Are the Bank, Kiriwina
Tok Pisin
A little over 40 years ago I had major surgery that required 6 weeks convalescence. I was told not to climb stairs or even walk very much (now for the same surgery they get you up and walking immediately). I … Continue reading Tok Pisin
Aloatu and the FCC.
Before visiting several of the islands on our tour we were given warnings about how to behave. No personal displays of affection, no shorts except on the beach, no sleeveless dresses, dress modestly because this is a strongly Christian area. … Continue reading Aloatu and the FCC.
Great Harbor, Poor Townsite, Rabaul
Rabaul was founded by the Germans in 1910 as the capital of German New Guinea because of its fine natural harbor. It turns out they could have picked a better spot. The town was seized by the Australians four years … Continue reading Great Harbor, Poor Townsite, Rabaul
Getting to War Junk
In the last post I wrote about the Vilu War Museum on Guadalcanal. Getting there was half the fun. We were on a tour traveling in a Toyota Coaster. My first Coaster trip was in 1985. I was covering an … Continue reading Getting to War Junk
War Junk
For several years a group of Expat Aid Workers put together a blog making fun of themselves, Stuff Expat Aid Workers Like (SEAWL). I was a contributor. It punctures our self-importance and our tendency to one up each other, by … Continue reading War Junk
I Just LOVE This!
The last couple of weeks have been a mix of port and sea days. I just love it. The ports stimulate my curiosity. When I get back, I madly start googling to find more information and enjoy writing about it. … Continue reading I Just LOVE This!
Pandemonium in Vanuatu.
Before independence Vanuatu was called the New Hebrides and was colonized by both the British and the French. Unlike other island groups where each side took a few islands, here they ruled through what they called a condominium. Locals called … Continue reading Pandemonium in Vanuatu.