John Luther Adams, a composer who spent most of his professional life in Alaska, won the Pulitzer prize for his composition “Become Ocean” an orchestral piece performed by the Seattle Symphony. The peace is about the Greenland Ice sheet becoming ocean as the bergs drop into the sea and raise its levels. You can listen on Spotify, it is a powerful and moving piece. I … Continue reading “Become Ocean”
Aappilattoq, Greenland, August 29, 2017: Aappilattoq is a village at the entrance to Prins Christian Sund. Prinsendam called at a few days ago to deliver pizza. Today we returned. The Captain had arranged for a limited shore visit. He set it up so that those who thought themselves physically fit enough collected tickets with a specific time window to go ashore. The idea was that … Continue reading An Accidental Cruise Port
Hvalsey, Greenland, August 27, 2008: For twice if the United States has existed, from the tenth to the fifteenth centuries, almost 500 years, the Norse hung on as farmers in southern Greenland. Then they disappeared. There is speculation as to why. Did they starve when the “Little ice age” set in? Were they displaced by a people with a better technology, the Inuit who had … Continue reading 500 Years and Gone.
Qaqortoq, Greenland, August 28, 2017: Walking around Qaqortoq is like participating in a scavenger hunt. In the 1990s Greenlander artist Aka Hoegh commissioned 18 Norse artists to carve reliefs into many of project is called “Stone and Man” and it is a delight. You turn a corner and you see a hand print or a face, or a fish or whale. Sometimes you go by … Continue reading Stone and Man in Qaqortoq, Greenland,
Qaqortoq, Greenland, August 28, 2017: Qaqortoq is three times the size of Nanortalik with half its charm. It’s the administrative center of Southern Greenland. It has bright painted houses, like Nanortalik but many of them are apartment buildings. You may know it by its Danish name, Julianehab. It does have its strong points like friendly people, public art, the first fountain in Greenland, educational institutions, … Continue reading A Fountain in the Center of South Greenland.
August 27, 2017, Nanortalik, Greenland: Nanortalik is the southernmost town in Greenland, it has about 1,300 people, which makes it a pretty big town for Greenland. Lonely Planet says it is magnificent with soaring mountains surrounding the town. This Sunday the fog hangs pretty low allowing us to concentrate on the village and not the surroundings. Nanortalik was founded in 1797 as a trading post … Continue reading “Nearer My God to Thee” and Icebergs
I would wager that not many of you have been through Prins Christian Sund. I would also wager that some of you will never go through the Sund. If you do it will be different, with changing weather, day to day, and changing climate that may drive some of the glaciers further back away from sea water. Finally, I take a lot of pics. The … Continue reading Prins Christian Sund Redux
I may be riding on the most expensive pizza delivery truck in the world. We were cruising through Prince Christian Sound in southern Greenland, approaching the village of Aappilattoq, a town of around 200 people. The Captain came on the PA system and told him we were stopping to deliver pizza and coke to the town. As boats from the town came out to meet … Continue reading Pizza Delivery and Old Whalers’ Drawings.