Belgrade, Hotel Moskva

These paragraphs are from a 2012 letter.  We returned to the Moskva Hotel, where we had stayed so many nights in the 1990s.  When we came back we stayed where we started, at the Moskva.  The deskman knew us after a decade of absence from the hotel.  The Moskva is one of my top three emotional picks for hotels in the world.  We spent hundreds of nights here in the 1990s and early 2000s, sometimes staying for a month at a time.  I watched the massive demonstrations against Milosevic from the Moskva’s windows. In 1997 Ljiljana chose the Moskva for … Continue reading Belgrade, Hotel Moskva

Belgrade, Kalemegdan: Where the Danube and Sava Rivers Meet.

Kalemegdan is where the Danube and Sava Rivers meet.  It is a fortified site that has been held by the Celts, Romans, Byzantines, Serbs, Turks, Austrians, Germans, Yugoslavs and the Serbs again.  It is a park, fort, and the place where Belgrade spends weekend afternoons.  The pictures are from Kalemegdan and other places mentioned in the letter.  These are excerpts from an March 2009 letter.   On Sunday in Belgrade the parks came alive.  Today Belgrade’s walking street was full of strollers eating ice cream and popcorn, stopping for an iced coffee at one of the cafes and strolling on … Continue reading Belgrade, Kalemegdan: Where the Danube and Sava Rivers Meet.