This is an excerpt from an April 20010 letter.
On Easter Suzi and I decided to travel to Subotica, which is in the very northernmost part of Serbia. It is a majority Catholic city, so we thought it might be a good place to celebrate Western Easter. By the time we got there any Easter festivities were long over, but we got to wander the streets to look at this Art Nouveau-Secessionist town. Although it is in Serbia, it is not of Serbia, but is tied, by history and tradition, to the Hapsburgs. It’s where Serbs who cannot get a passport go to leave the country. We delighted in having an ice cream on a square that could have been designed by Gaudi, and might well have been in Barcelona.
Subotica has street signs in two alphabets and three languages, (Serbian,Hungarian, and Slovak), sometimes four. We were enchanted.