Thanksgiving in Serbia, 2010 and 2011

These are two letters from Serbia I wrote about Thanksgiving from 2010 and 2011. 2010 (Suzi is in Egypt, I am in Belgrade, Serbia) Thanksgiving morning was the first cold, clear day of the season.  Some of the lights in the flat worked, some didn’t work.  So I called the landlord.  By 9:15 I had an electrician.  It appears a trolley bus jumped the lines … Continue reading Thanksgiving in Serbia, 2010 and 2011

Eastertide in three former Yugoslav Countries (Early 2000s)

Three Easters from the former Yugoslavia: Slovenia, Croatia and Montenegro, early 2000s Slovenia: Spring had come to Ljubljana, you can tell by the forsythia and the willow, but it was not by the weather.  A cold wind blew snow flurries around and disrupted the Sunday flea market by bringing one of the displays crashing down. Outside the churches vendors sold almost budding willow boughs and … Continue reading Eastertide in three former Yugoslav Countries (Early 2000s)

Belgrade, Easter 2001 (continued from post before)

This is continuation, from the same letter I posted from yesterday.  It is early for Easter but I thought the two posts should go together. Easter, 2001 In front of St. Marko’s church are stalls selling Easter candies and beautifully painted, decorated and, in some cases, bejeweled (probably with zircon) eggs.  Nearby kids ride battery operated cars wearing their Easter wreaths.   An old woman approached … Continue reading Belgrade, Easter 2001 (continued from post before)

Lent and Easter in Belgrade

April 15, 2001(Easter Sunday) Belgrade, Yugoslavia Dear Friends, Religion in Serbia is struggling to find itself after 45 years of official atheism followed by 10 years in which being a Serb, Croat or Bosniak was defined by religion since appearance or language really didn’t separate the groups.  Religion never died under Tito.  We celebrated Easter in Croatia in 1972 with the family in whose bed … Continue reading Lent and Easter in Belgrade

Carnival Lisbon, Apres Carnival, Belgrade

Carnival is over.  In some places it continues into Lent with the funeral of Vaal (Carnival) which starts penitently enough but becomes a second bacchanal.  We experienced something different in Belgrade.  As an excerpt from this letter from May 2009 shows.   Saturday morning Suzi and I were having a late breakfast in the outdoor café Via del Gusto.  This Saturday the café music seems … Continue reading Carnival Lisbon, Apres Carnival, Belgrade