Ghent has three large churches almost in a row. Each one of them is grand enough to be a cathedral, but two are parish churches that look like cathedrals. Gothic Ghent had the mega church figured out before the U.S. Bible Belt. These churches are a short walk from each other, but each developed because of competing abbeys, competing guilds and competing neighborhoods. St. Nicholas attracted my attention because of the tall Gothic windows designed to let in light, but I thought perhaps too much and because most of those windows did not have stained glass.
Many Churches in the low countries had their stained glass smashed out during the reformation by the Calvinist Taliban, who, like their modern Islamic equivalent, destroyed priceless historic artwork for the same reason, the rejection of idols and idolatry. A sign outside the church said there was a free art exhibition inside, so I wondered if it still was even a church?
The current building construction began in the 13th century on the foundations of an older Romanesque church. Apparently, it was not not so firm a foundation. The building suffered structural weakness from the start. Some of the windows were knocked out and bricked up to strengthen the walls. Others were destroyed during the period the cathedral brochure calls “the religious turmoil.” I think they mean The Reformation. Humidity caused damage, weakening the tower so they had to take the spire down. As technology improved, they tried other fixes, like iron beams. In the 17th century counter reformation baroque elements were added to the church interior to bring back some of the splash, but not much stained glass.
The church suffered further damage during the French Revolution and fell further into disrepair, until some buildings around it were demolished in the 19th century and people realized how attractive it really was, attractiveness that drew me to go into the church.
Serious restoration work started in 1963 and is still underway. About half the building is used as a church, the other half is still a work area that currently houses art exhibits and the old organ. The church has a new organ but is working to restore the old one. According to the church’s booklet the pipes are in good condition and the wooden casing with the carvings is original but the way of delivering air the pipes must be replaced.
The Church is installing new stained glass, much of it of modern design. The clear glass windows created harsh backlight to the altar, according to the brochure. The new stained glass softens the effect. Two of the older windows have been restored.
We only had an hour and a quarter to wander Ghent, which is too bad because there was an organ recital scheduled for after we left. I would have loved to hear the acoustics. So, on the way out I dropped a Euro through the slot and lit a candle for the health of my family and the peace of the world.
