This week in Antarctica we encountered weather ranging from moody mist, to brilliant high contrast sunshine to down to the deck fog. Temperatures ranged from the mid-20s to the mid-30s and photographic conditions varied widely. I posted a lot of … Continue reading Black and White Antarctic
“The End of the World.” That’s the way Ushuaia brands itself. Also as the Capital of the Malvinas (Falkland Islands.) It is a beautiful city on Tierra Del Fuego Island but no matter where you look, except straight behind the … Continue reading Fin del Mundo
I think the reason I picked this stateroom on the port side of Volendam was because I remembered being on the port side of Prinsendam 10 years ago, waking up in these waters, opening the window drapes and saying “Oh … Continue reading Glacier Alley
…before school starts. Daniel, our cruise director, proudly announced that of the three cruise ships into Punta Arenas, ours was the only one docking the others were tendering in. As it turned out they got to wait in their warm … Continue reading The Last Days of Freedom…
It reminded me of my first trip on the Alaska Marine Highway’s MV Matanuska in 1973. They had not yet added stretched her and added the solarium. We were sitting in the forward observation lounge looking at fantastic scenery that … Continue reading Fjords and Glaciers
…Eat Farmed Salmon” is a popular bumper sticker in coastal Alaska. Another one reads “Real Fish Don’t Eat Pellets.” Opposition to fish farming is almost a part of an Alaskan’s creed. Back in the late ‘60s the Norwegian Grønvets brothers … Continue reading “Friends Don’t Let Friends…
On Sunday we called at Puerto Chacabuco. Again, the Cruise Director and Loney Planed agree, nothing here, get out of town. We chose to take a bus excursion into the Andes and the regional capital of Coyhaique. Normally the border … Continue reading I Climb the Empire State Building
One of the features of Chiloe district homes is the shingles used for siding. Even though many of the walls are now sided with corrugated steel usually one face, or part of a house face, is sided with shingles. The … Continue reading Shingles and Stilts, A Chiloe Sidebar.
I have been taken with rural wooden churches since I was a freshman at St. Olaf College. Before I realized that God really didn’t care if I continued to go to the Episcopal Church or if I went to Boe … Continue reading Chiloé’s Wooden Churches
Both Lonely Planet and our Cruise Director agree that the best thing to do in Puerto Montt is to get out of town and head toward Chile’s Lake District, visit the national Parks, see the volcanos and smell the roses … Continue reading Spinning Wheels
We had our Tuesday on Thursday. Tuesday’s sea day was supposed to bring both an all hands drill followed by the “Glampout” (Think glamorous campout). But the seas were rough, and the captain put it off until Thursday. When Thursday … Continue reading Repeat Sea Day
For a full sea day before landing on Robinson Crusoe Island both the Cruise Director and Captain had been warning us about the tender operation. It would be bouncy, it would be slippery, if you have any doubts stay on … Continue reading Robinson Crusoe Redux
On day 25 of the cruise, we are finally organized, or as organized as we ever get. Our walkabout little red bag made it to us the evening of day 24 in the port of San Antonio, Chile, a port … Continue reading Thank You St. Anthony
Five years ago when we called at San Antonio we took the tour to Santiago, Chile’s Capital. The tour was not exactly what we needed, and I didn’t want to repeat it. (You can read my old blog post about … Continue reading Sweetheart of the Rodeo.
The Casablanca Valley sits between the Coastal cities of Valparaiso and San Antonio and the inland capital of Santiago. It is one of Chile’s wine producing areas. The valley has a wet winter and a warm, dry summer. In the … Continue reading Wine!
I don’t know why we dock at San Antonio rather than Valparaiso. Both are ports for Santiago. Valpo is a far more interesting place. It probably has something to do with money. (Someone asked the captain that in his Q&A … Continue reading Carnival and Fish Politics.
Today we were supposed to be in Antofagasta, Chile. I was looking forward to traveling from there to the Baquedano railway junction in the dry Atacama Desert. There old engines and rolling stock are preserved in the dry desert heat. … Continue reading An Accidental Sea Day
We got to Arica a day too early, Feb 13. Feb 14, Valentine’s Day, marks the beginning of the town’s Carnival season that runs through Fat Tuesday, March 8. The town is erecting stages and bleachers for the big party. … Continue reading 250213 Arica, a day too soon.
I am jumping the queue on this one, posting it ahead of Arica because it is tied to a day on everyone’s calendar. Valentine’s Day on Volendam was a dress up night. There was a big dinner in the main … Continue reading Valentines on Volendam
Sitka used to style itself as the Paris of the Pacific. That was in the first half of the 19th century when it was the largest European settlement in a broad region including what is now California. It was called … Continue reading The X of Y
In January 1881, during the War of the Pacific, also known as the the Saltpeter war, or the 10 cent war (it had a lot of names), Chile occupied Lima. The war was fought over control of nitrates and a … Continue reading Magic Fountains
Downtown Lima is about 9 kilometers from its port Callao. This is intentional. The Spaniards feared English and French Pirates, so they located their major towns, Trujillo, Pisco and Lima some distance from the port. When the pirates (or privateers … Continue reading Lima Streets.
When you first see the Costa Verde Cliffs in Lima, they look almost sculpted. The cliffs run for about 16 kilometers (10 miles) along the Pacific Coast. They are 50 to 60 meters (160 to 190 feet) high and consist … Continue reading Miraflores’ Sculpted Cliffs.
When we crossed the equator new and different wildlife began appearing. And when I went out for my walk on the promenade deck folks were walking in a clockwise direction rather than the usual flow on the deck which is … Continue reading Sea Days in the Humboldt Current