Take the Train from Casablanca going south. (The Marrakesh Express)
I’ve never heard a train song I didn’t want to ride. I’ve ridden the Rock Island Line and the City of New Orleans. Some songs I can never ride. The Super Chief and Phoebe Snow are 30 years gone. But you can still “take the train from Casablanca going south.” We rode the Marrakesh Express. The song is more about anticipation than the ride, but the ride, while crowded, is worth it. You clickety clack from the coastal flats through rolling hills and dessert. There are settlements of brown adobe brick, circled by a wall, looking like they grew out … Continue reading Take the Train from Casablanca going south. (The Marrakesh Express)
Rabat Medina
A final tranche from our 2007 trip to Rabat. Continue reading Rabat Medina
Rabat Deco
In the last post I mentioned the art deco quarter of Rabat. Here are some pictures. Continue reading Rabat Deco
Rabat Morocco
From an October 2007 letter: We’re in Rabat for a Pan-African Community Radio meeting. In the evenings Suzi and I are free and wander Rabat. Suzi says “we could live here.” Rabat is a walkable city, relatively clean, French art deco, relaxed without the hassle (or excitement) of Casablanca. A teenager grabs Suzi’s hand and starts doing henna artwork before she can protest. I, of course, have to pay for it, a temporary souvenir of Rabat. She is the only really aggressive tout we’ve encountered. It is so unlike Cairo, Casablanca or Marrakech. On Friday we had only morning meetings … Continue reading Rabat Morocco
Mitteleuropa Cafes in Vienna and Bratislava
When we lived in Bratislava we often went for a show, concert or meal in Vienna. After the show we sat on the Schwartzenberg Café (also called the Opera Café) along the D tram line, enjoying a coffee until it … Continue reading Mitteleuropa Cafes in Vienna and Bratislava
He is Risen, He is Risen Indeed.
Across the back of a row of the booths of the Altwiener Ostermarkt, Freyung (Old Vienna Easter market at Freyung Square) is a 40 meter (130 foot) long mural of the Passion of Christ painted for this 25th anniversary of the … Continue reading He is Risen, He is Risen Indeed.
Bratislava Easter Fair or a Spanking for Easter.
The Bratislava Easter markets are basically extra booths added onto the open air booths that are in two of the squares all season (Hviezdoslavovo námestie and Františkánske námestie.) The Bratislava market had almost no emphasis on food (except for a … Continue reading Bratislava Easter Fair or a Spanking for Easter.
Altwiener Ostermarkt, Freyung (Old Vienna Easter market at Freyung)
Around the perimeter of the Altwiener Ostermarkt, Freyung (Old Vienna Easter market at Freyung Square) booths sell handicrafts, I bought an olive wood egg. One sold live rabbits. The food market and the wine tasting booths were across the street. … Continue reading Altwiener Ostermarkt, Freyung (Old Vienna Easter market at Freyung)
40,000 Easter Eggs
The Altwiener Ostermarkt, Freyung (Old Vienna Easter market at Freyung Square) was smaller and more interesting than the market at Schonbrunn. In the middle of the square is what is advertised as, 40,000 decorated Easter eggs are for sale. It … Continue reading 40,000 Easter Eggs
Easter Market at Schonbrunn Palace
Vienna’s Easter markets are spin offs of their Christmas markets and are relatively small compared with their Yuletide counterparts. I had wondered how these markets dealt with the Lenten season of penance and fasting. They mostly don’t. The market on … Continue reading Easter Market at Schonbrunn Palace
Easter (or is it Spring Festival?) in Cairo.
This post is from Easter, 2007. Suzi and I were working in Egypt. The Spring Festival, “Sham el Nessim,” “smell the breezes” always falls on Easter Monday (Based on the Eastern rite’s reckoning, which this year was the same as … Continue reading Easter (or is it Spring Festival?) in Cairo.
Railjet, Austria’s High Speed Train.
Railjet is Austria’s high speed train. While not as fast as Germany’s ICE (Suzi’s train from Brussels to Munich topped out at 275) or France’s TGV, we clocked a respectable 232 km per hour (144 MPH) on the route between Munich and Vienna. The train is comfortable with wi-fi (I took a picture when the speedometer tipped 200 and sent it out on FaceBook), a dining car, a cart that brings food to you and nice seats. Taking pictures out of the windows at the alpine meadows at that speed was a challenge for my camera. You don’t really feel … Continue reading Railjet, Austria’s High Speed Train.
Eastertide in three former Yugoslav Countries (Early 2000s)
Three Easters from the former Yugoslavia: Slovenia, Croatia and Montenegro, early 2000s Slovenia: Spring had come to Ljubljana, you can tell by the forsythia and the willow, but it was not by the weather. A cold wind blew snow flurries … Continue reading Eastertide in three former Yugoslav Countries (Early 2000s)
Freising, Bavaria, redux
Freising is a town near the Munich Airport where the airport hotels are located. But it is an old city. It had a cathedral before Munich, a brewery too. It is a place I lay over on trips to and from Tbilisi for jet lagging. I have posted from this delightful town before, including a post about the oldest continuously operating brewery in the world. These pictures are from an afternoon stroll around town. Suzi had never been here and I wanted her to see it. Continue reading Freising, Bavaria, redux
Domberg, The Cathedral Church in Freising
Domberg is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The current structure is a Romanesque building from the 13th century. When you go in, however, it is a shock, because the interior had been redone in Baroque style in the 17th century. It almost seems like a disconnect. I once had an architecture professor who called the Baroque “Eclectic clutter.” My reaction was “majestically bizarre.” Elaborate frescoes, pink stucco, gilt and an alter piece originally painted by Rubens (The one there now is a reproduction, the original was carted off somewhere.) The organ is really a baroque organ, the decoration is so … Continue reading Domberg, The Cathedral Church in Freising
Palm Sunday, Freising, Germany
My flight from Tbilisi touched down at 6. As I stepped out the shuttle at our airport hotel in Freising at 7 AM, after clearing customs and getting my bag, I heard the joyous “surround sound” peeling of church bells … Continue reading Palm Sunday, Freising, Germany
A Craftsman in Easter Eggs (From 2002)
There are Serbian Easter Eggs, Croatian Easter Eggs, American Easter Eggs, and Slovak Easter Eggs. Mikulas “Mickey” Derevjanik, is a Slovak craftsman, a metal worker, who designs Easter Eggs wrapped in wire. He comes from generations of metal workers who … Continue reading A Craftsman in Easter Eggs (From 2002)
Georgia Road Trip, April 2014
These are pictures taken on the back roads from Tbilisi to Gori and back in April with the spring blossoms just coming out and green buds just beginning to tip the limbs of trees and bushes. The last picture is a housing development for internally displaced people (IDPs, or refugees) from the aftermath of the Russian invasion of Georgia in 2008. The three before that are entering Tbilisi. The one what looks like a lattice was an award winning Soviet building. It is now the Bank of Georgia. Continue reading Georgia Road Trip, April 2014
Uplistskhe Cave City, Georgia
Uplistsikhe was a town on the Mtkvari River along the Silk Road. It thrived in pre-Christian times. It was carved into sandstone with an amphitheater, worship chambers (with pits for animal sacrifices) and apothecary (with stone niches for different herbs.) Some of the chambers were carved to look like they were wood plank inside. Portals were carved into the stone to make entering the caves seem like entering a building. The nobility lived up on the hill, the commoners lived on the river flats. From the top you get a good view of the abandoned stone houses below. There is … Continue reading Uplistskhe Cave City, Georgia
Ateni Sioni Monastery and Church
The road from Gori to Ateni Sioni Church goes past the oval shaped Gori fortress. The church was not opened and I did not get to see the fabled frescoes. In fact it is under renovation and is surrounded by piles of stones that look like they will be used in replacing walls around the compound. There is scaffolding around one side of the main church. With the state of deconstruction the church does not look actvie. The Atenis Soni Monastery (actually a convent) is about a mile away. It is small and lovely. A nun showed us around. It … Continue reading Ateni Sioni Monastery and Church
Gori, Georgia, Stalin’s Home Town
On Saturday I took a field trip a little to the east. This is my last contracted trip to Georgia and the IREX project ends in September. From the start of the summer it will be mostly clean up. I visited three sites, Gori, the Birthplace of Stalin, Ateni Sioni with its Monastery and convent, and Uplistsikhe, an ancient town carved out of sandstone. Gori was invaded by the Russians in 2008 with a lot of damage to the town. Unlike Serbia, which seems to like to keep its damage visible for decades to prove how wronged they were, aside … Continue reading Gori, Georgia, Stalin’s Home Town
Tbilisi Spring, 2014
The fountain in Freedom Square is no longer covered with boards and the water is running, but when I arrived it didn’t feel like spring. A cold, wet rain greeted me in Tbilisi. But as the week progressed, first we … Continue reading Tbilisi Spring, 2014
Dublin Oddities
This is the last post from Dublin. It includes pictures of what I consider oddities. The Spire of Dublin is almost 400 feet tall and replaces the Nelson column that was blown up in the 1960s. To me any structure that tall without an antenna or flag is an oddity. Others include James Joyce selling free wi-fi, a literary bar and bookie joint, a 100 year old bookie (we assume), some art by Grace Gifford painted on a prison sell wall when she was incarcerated, a bar in a church, Molly Malone promoting breast cancer awareness, Insomnia Coffee, the Bram … Continue reading Dublin Oddities
Life in the Liffey, Dublin
I love rivers. We walked along and across the Liffey, took a boat tour as the tide was coming in, which meant the boat could not get under the bridge so they had to let us off downstream, and walked along the canals that feed into the river. The Convention Center where Radio Days took place was along the river. The Samuel Beckett Bridge, formed like a harp, is a striking feature of the river. The Customs House is the domed building that features in many of these pictures. Continue reading Life in the Liffey, Dublin