Sveti Stefan used to be a village. Under Tito it became an exclusive hotel hosting the likes of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, Princess Margaret and Robert McNamara. We first visited in 1972. We were allowed to wander the place for a fee, until the Burtons came “home” and we were shooed out. In the 1990s and up to 2004 we stayed here as a relief from aid work in Serbia, Montenegro and Kosovo. We alternated between Sveti Stefan and Villa Milocer. Both were part of the same hotel management. In those days, in the aftermath of the Balkan wars, the hotels were affordable. The hotels were both closed and remodeled. Now it is a bit more expensive. It may be dangerous to even take a look. The last time we tried to cross the causeway the guard whistled to us as if we were dogs, telling us to go away. No greeting, ho “please” just whistles and grunts.
