The Devil Owns Salvation
March 5, 2015 Devil’s Island, French Guiana In the 1750s they called them the Isles of Salvation. French Colonists found the mainland of South America disease ridden and many died. These islands, several miles off shore did not seem to … Continue reading The Devil Owns Salvation
Crossing the Amazon Bar
March 4, 2014 At Sea Early yesterday evening we crossed the equator and early this morning we crossed the bar and are in the Atlantic, the Amazon behind us. We can do our laundry, get clean towels and take long … Continue reading Crossing the Amazon Bar
What Exactly Do You Mean by Remote?
March 3, 2014 Cruising the Amazon “If I mailed a postcard from here who knows how long it would take to get home?” That’s what one of my fellow passengers said when we sailed into Santarem last week. “This is … Continue reading What Exactly Do You Mean by Remote?
“Wildlife, Science, History, Adventure.” and Joy
March 3, 2015, 7 AM Cruising past Santarem This is our last day on the Amazon. We reach the bar at the entrance of the river at 1:30 tomorrow morning. We are traveling fast, faster than twenty knots. We need … Continue reading “Wildlife, Science, History, Adventure.” and Joy
Boi Bomba!
March 2, 2015 Parintins, Brazil Parintins is a river town between Santarem and Manaus. If it mentioned in the guidebooks at all it’s contained in a little box off to the side as a side trip to take in June … Continue reading Boi Bomba!
In the Shadow of the City
March 1, 2014 Manaus, Brazil Manaus is the starting point for treks into the Amazon rainforest. It sits were Rio Negro flows into Rio Amazon. The Amazon is swift, muddy, coffee colored, and cooler than the Negro. Rio Negro is … Continue reading In the Shadow of the City
Jungle Metropolis
March 1, 2014 Manaus, Brazil We’ve just finished two days in Manaus, the largest city in the Amazon basin. Manaus started as a mission station and a military base to reinforce Portugal’s and then Brazil’s claim on the region. I … Continue reading Jungle Metropolis
A Pleasant Anachronism or Nintindo in the Jungle.
February 28, Manaus, Brazil It’s a pleasant anachronism. The Manaus Opera House (Theater of the Amazon) was built by the Rubber Barons at the end of the 19th century. The house is decadent; angels, theatrical masks, a painted curtain and … Continue reading A Pleasant Anachronism or Nintindo in the Jungle.
Amazon Sunrise
February 25, Went to bed last night the ship was rolling, got up this morning and the water was calm. At sunset the water was blue, at sunrise it was chocolate brown. We have entered the Amazon. Still 29 hours … Continue reading Amazon Sunrise
Thoughts on a Sea Day
February 23, 2015 Sailing around the eastern hump of Brazil We are just coming off of 5 ports in 5 days. Everyone thinks this is too much. The ports tend to merge into one another. It’s easy to fall into … Continue reading Thoughts on a Sea Day
Missed the Giant Cashew Tree, Got the Chocolate Pizza
February 22, 2015 Natal, Brazil Poor Natal. This is the fifth port day in a row and we were low on energy. Natal has huge sand dunes. Some took dune buggy trips. We watched the dunes as we sailed by … Continue reading Missed the Giant Cashew Tree, Got the Chocolate Pizza
Asparagus and the Birth of New York’s Jewish Community
February 21, 2015 Recife Brazil What you notice first in sailing into Recife (which means “reef’ in Portuguese, it’s surrounded by them) is what looks like a giant asparagus. It sits there looking, I think, kind of silly. When I … Continue reading Asparagus and the Birth of New York’s Jewish Community
Oh Linda! It’s Not a Doo Wop Song
February 21, 2015 Olinda, Brazil Olinda is a UNESCO World Heritage Site six kilometers from Recife. It was on high ground and so would be easier to defend than Reciefe, so the Portuguese thought. They were wrong. The Dutch took … Continue reading Oh Linda! It’s Not a Doo Wop Song
Loose Ends in Salvador
February 22, 2015 Off the East Coast of Brazil. I have posted three pages with pictures of Salvador Bahia, Combat Dancing, one on churches and one on the extended carnival in Salvador. But there are pictures that I took and … Continue reading Loose Ends in Salvador
Lagoon Fishermen
February 20, 2015 Maceio, Brazil My friend Eric Jordan wants me to post pictures of fishermen and how they fish. On Friday Prinsedam called at the city of Maceio. We only rode through the city to some villages (and I … Continue reading Lagoon Fishermen
Chocolate Colonels
February 18, 2015 Ilheus, Brazil Ash Wednesday, the churches are open and workers are taking down the bleachers and stages from Carnival and sweeping up the streamers and confetti. The Prinsendam seems to be doing a little penance itself. The … Continue reading Chocolate Colonels
Combat Dancing
February 20, 2015 Off the East Coast of Brazil Capoeria dancing is a combination of dance and martial art with ritual fighting. It is also a sport. Slaves invented it in Bahia state during from ritual African dances. It was … Continue reading Combat Dancing
Carnival Just Keeps on Coming, Salvador, Bahia
February 19, 2015, Salvador, Bahia, Brazil Carnival is over but in Salvador it ends later than in Rio, and Salvador claims it throws a bigger party than Rio, which bills its carnival as “The biggest party in the world.” In … Continue reading Carnival Just Keeps on Coming, Salvador, Bahia
What Would St. Francis Do?
February 19, 2015 Salvador, Bahia, Brazil St. Francis would be appalled but would probably recognize it. I wonder what Pope Francis thinks. In an ironic statement the Franciscan church and monastery in Salvador, Bahia is laden with gold. 19 Lay not … Continue reading What Would St. Francis Do?
The Chrysler Building Gets Religion
February 16, 2015 Sailing out of Rio “The Chrysler Building Gets Religion.” At least that what the statue of Christ the Redeemer on the top of Corcovado reminds me of, although I think this art deco “wonder of the modern … Continue reading The Chrysler Building Gets Religion
Joyful Apocalypse,
February 16, 2015 Carnival in Rio. We were on our feet dancing for the entire performance of the Mocidade Samba School at the Sambodormo in Rio for Carnival. This group was clearly a crowd favorite. When they were announced thousands … Continue reading Joyful Apocalypse,
Carnival in Rio!
February 16, 2015 Rio Sambodormo is the epicenter of Carnival. It is a street lined by concrete bleachers, 13 grandstands plus reviewing stands, holding 90,000, designed by Oscar Niemeyer, who designed the city of Brasilia and major soccer stadiums. The … Continue reading Carnival in Rio!
The Girl in Ipanema
February 15, 2015 Rio Dear Friends, Anyone who has traveled in India, North Africa or the Middle East knows the ritual of a visit to Uncle Tonoose’s carpet shop. In South America there is a VERY upscale version of that … Continue reading The Girl in Ipanema
Manha de Carnaval
February 15, 2015 Rio I was so excited I couldn’t sleep. Therefore I was rewarded as we sailed past sugar loaf just before sunrise watching the pilot boat drop off the harbor pilot on Prinsendam. We watched the sun behind … Continue reading Manha de Carnaval